Pizza al Trancio (Milanese Slice Recipe)

Milanese-style pizza al trancio is a thick, airy pan pizza with a browned, olive-oil-crisp base and a soft center. For one 30 × 40 cm pan, use 500 g flour and 360 g water, ferment the dough in the fridge, let it rise in an oiled pan, then bake at 250°C/480°F until the base is deeply browned and the toppings are set.

The first bite should give you a crisp, savory edge, then a pillowy middle that holds its shape. That contrast is the point: this is not a thin, floppy slice, and the dough needs time to develop before it goes into the oven. I focus on three things when developing pan-pizza recipes: enough water for an open crumb, a relaxed dough that stretches without tearing, and a hot oven that browns the base.

What makes Milanese-style pan pizza different?

This pizza is baked in a rectangular pan and cut into substantial slices, or tranci. Its dough is thick and airy, while olive oil helps the bottom fry and brown against the pan. Toppings vary, but the goal is a tender interior, a crisp base, and a slice sturdy enough to serve.

The style is associated with Milan, though shop recipes and toppings differ. For a home version, aim for an open, soft crumb rather than a dense bread-like slab. Tomato and mozzarella make a familiar topping; you can keep them simple so the dough stays the focus.

A high-hydration dough is one with a relatively large amount of water compared with flour. Here, 360 g water for 500 g flour gives 72% hydration. The dough will feel sticky, but that is expected. Resist the urge to add a lot of extra flour, which can make the finished pizza heavy.

Ingredients and pan setup

This recipe makes one 30 × 40 cm pizza, about four to six portions depending on how you cut it. Weighing the flour and water is the easiest way to repeat the result. Use a room-temperature pan and a thin, even layer of olive oil; never heat an empty, oil-coated pan.

A 1.0–1.5 mm uncoated aluminum pan heats quickly and spreads heat well. A seasoned blue-steel pan is another good choice; it is durable and responds well to heat. Check the pan’s instructions and oven rating. Avoid pans with handles or coatings that are not rated for oven use.

For the flour, bread flour is a practical choice, but strong white flour also works. If using fresh mozzarella, drain it well and use a little less; excess moisture can leave the center wet. Keep toppings modest, especially in the middle, so the dough can bake through.

Make and cold-ferment the dough

Cold fermentation means letting dough rise slowly in the refrigerator. It gives the flour time to absorb water and makes the dough easier to handle later. Plan ahead: the dough needs at least an overnight rest, then time to warm and rise in the pan before baking.

1. Mix the flour, water, and yeast in a large bowl until no dry flour remains. Cover and rest for 15 minutes.
2. Add the salt. Pinch and fold the dough until the salt is mixed in, then work it with wet hands for a few minutes. It will be sticky. Cover the bowl.
3. Over the next 30 minutes, give the dough two or three rounds of folds. To fold, lift one edge, stretch it gently, and fold it over the center. Turn the bowl and repeat.
4. Cover well and refrigerate for 18–24 hours. A covered container prevents the surface from drying out. If your refrigerator runs very cold, the dough may need more time to warm and rise later.

When I develop a pan dough, I use folds rather than asking cooks to knead a sticky mass on a floured counter. Folds help organize the dough while keeping extra flour out of the mix. The dough is ready for the pan when it looks smoother and has some spring, not when it feels dry.

Proof, top, and bake

Proofing is the final rise after the dough goes into the pan. Letting it relax and puff before baking helps create a lighter center. Fully preheat the oven before the pizza goes in; a hot oven and a properly prepared pan support a crisp base.

1. Take the dough from the refrigerator and let it sit, covered, until it is easier to stretch. This may take 1–2 hours, depending on room temperature and dough temperature.
2. Pour 25–30 g olive oil into the room-temperature pan and spread it across the base and corners. Transfer the dough to the pan. With oiled fingers, ease it outward without pulling hard.
3. If the dough springs back, leave it alone for 15–20 minutes, then stretch again. Cover and let it proof until visibly aerated and relaxed, often 1–2 hours. The exact time depends on room temperature and yeast activity.
4. Heat the oven to 250°C/480°F, or its highest conventional-bake setting up to that temperature. After the oven signals it is ready, allow another 30–45 minutes for the oven and any baking steel or stone to heat fully. Confirm that the pan is rated for the setting.
5. Gently dimple the dough with oiled fingertips. Spread on the tomatoes in a thin layer, leaving a small border. Add mozzarella and oregano without piling toppings in the center.
6. Bake on the center or lower rack. Start checking at 12 minutes; many home ovens take 12–18 minutes. Look for a browned base, a set center, and melted, lightly tinted cheese. Rotate the pan only if your oven has a known hot spot.

At 250°C, exposed oil around the pan’s edge can smoke or scorch. Use a thin, even coating rather than letting oil pool. Smoke point varies by oil and by product, so check the label instead of relying on one temperature as a rule.

Release, cool, and serve

A crisp base can soften if steam gets trapped under the pizza. Release it from the pan soon after baking and let it rest on a rack. This short pause also makes the slices easier to cut and helps melted cheese settle.

Check the base by lifting a corner carefully with a thin, non-scratching utensil. If it is well browned, loosen the edges and slide the pizza onto a cooling rack. If the bottom is still pale, return the pan to a lower rack for a few more minutes, checking often.

Let the pizza rest for about five minutes, then cut it into squares or rectangles. Serve warm. For a simple Milanese-style presentation, keep the toppings balanced and the slices substantial; add a little oregano or a drizzle of olive oil at the end if you like.

Let the pan cool naturally before washing. Do not pour cold water onto a hot pan or plunge it into the sink, since rapid cooling can warp metal or stress a coating. For blue steel, follow the maker’s care directions and dry it well. Avoid abrasive tools on coated pans, and do not use aerosol cooking spray on nonstick cookware, as residue can build up and affect release.

Common questions

These answers cover the key choices that affect dough texture, browning, and timing. Use visual cues as well as the clock: home ovens, pans, and room temperatures vary. If you are unsure, check the pan and appliance instructions before changing the heat or moving the pan.

Can I make the dough without a stand mixer?
Yes. Mix by hand, then use two or three rounds of folds during the first 30 minutes. Wet or lightly oiled hands help manage the sticky dough.

Can I use all-purpose flour?
Yes, though the dough may have less strength than one made with bread flour. Keep the water amount the same at first; add flour only if the dough is unusually loose and cannot hold together after resting.

How long should the dough ferment?
Refrigerate it for 18–24 hours, then let it warm and rise in the pan until relaxed and visibly aerated. The final rise varies with room temperature.

Can I use a 72% hydration dough if it feels sticky?
Yes. Sticky is normal at this hydration. Use oiled hands and folds, and avoid adding much extra flour, which changes the dough’s balance.

What pan is best for this recipe?
Use an oven-rated, uncoated aluminum pan or a seasoned blue-steel pan, about 1.0–1.5 mm thick. Confirm the maker’s oven rating, especially if the pan has handles or a coating.

Do I need a baking steel or stone?
No. A fully preheated home oven and suitable pan are enough. A steel or stone may affect heat transfer, so allow it to preheat for 30–45 minutes after the oven reaches temperature.

Why is my pizza’s center soggy?
Common causes include too much topping, wet mozzarella, or an underbaked base. Drain fresh mozzarella well, use a light tomato layer, and continue baking until the center is set.

How do I know when it is done?
Start checking at 12 minutes. The base should be browned, the center set, and the cheese melted and lightly tinted. Many home-oven bakes take 12–18 minutes.

Can I prepare the dough ahead?
Yes. The refrigerator rest is designed for advance preparation. Keep the dough covered, then bring it toward room temperature before stretching it into the oiled pan.

Why is oil smoking in the oven?
Oil may be pooling or exposed at the pan edge, and smoke point differs by oil and product. Use a thin coating, keep oil off oven surfaces, and check the label.

(This article was written by one of our staff writers, Steven R. Bancroft. Visit our Meet the Team page.)